Mary Phelps JACOB
Biography

Born on April 20, 1891, in New Rochelle, New York, Mary Phelps Jacob was an American socialite, inventor, and publisher who played a significant role in the history of fashion.

Mary came from a wealthy and well-connected family, giving her a privileged upbringing. In 1910, at the age of 19, she married Richard Peabody, but the marriage was short-lived, and they divorced in 1912. Later that year, Mary found herself preparing for a debutante ball, and as was customary at the time, she needed something to wear under her gown.

Here comes the interesting twist in Mary's story. Dissatisfied with the traditional corsets of the era, she decided to create her own solution. With the help of her maid and a few handkerchiefs, ribbons, and cord, Mary fashioned a more comfortable and less restrictive undergarment. This makeshift contraption not only served its purpose but also caught the attention of those around her.

Recognizing the potential of her creation, Mary patented her design in 1914, calling it the "Backless Brassiere" or the "Crosby Bra." This invention marked a significant departure from the rigid and constricting corsets that women had worn for centuries. The innovative bra design provided support while allowing for greater freedom of movement and comfort.

In 1915, Mary Phelps Jacob sold the patent for her bra design to the Warner Brothers Corset Company for $1,500, a relatively modest sum given the impact her invention would have on the fashion industry. Little did she know that her creation would revolutionize women's undergarments and become a foundation for modern bras.

After her divorce from Peabody, Mary remarried in 1920, this time to Harry Crosby. Together, they lived a bohemian lifestyle and were part of the expatriate literary and artistic community in Paris during the 1920s. Harry was a poet and founder of the Black Sun Press, a small press that published works by some of the most renowned writers of the time, including D. H. Lawrence, James Joyce, and Ernest Hemingway.

Mary herself became known by the name Caresse Crosby after she and Harry moved to Europe. She continued to be involved in literary circles and embraced the avant-garde lifestyle. The couple faced personal challenges, including Harry's infidelity and struggles with mental health.

Tragically, in 1929, Harry Crosby died by suicide. After his death, Caresse returned to the United States and focused on her writing and publishing endeavors. She went on to publish poetry, essays, and novels, including works like "Crosses of Gold" and "The Stranger."

In 1931, Caresse Crosby married Selbert Young, a member of the New York Stock Exchange. The couple settled in Virginia and had two children. Caresse continued to be active in literary and social circles but gradually withdrew from the public eye.

Later in life, Caresse Crosby faced financial challenges, and the rights to her bra patent had expired by the 1930s, preventing her from benefiting further from the widespread use of her invention. Despite the challenges, she remained a creative and independent spirit until her death.

Caresse Crosby passed away on January 26, 1970, at the age of 78. Her impact on the fashion industry through the invention of the modern bra and her role in the literary and artistic circles of the 1920s make her a noteworthy figure in both fashion history and cultural history.



Learn more about the life of     Mary Phelps JACOB.

Visit New Rochelle, New York, USA
Discover the people who lived there, the places they visited and the stories they shared.